Since my first post on capers, several people have written with details on their own approaches to preserving the unopened flower of the Capparis Spinosa. I’m amazed by the diversity of methods, the subtle variations within the three caper-preserving themes: salt-curing, sun-drying and preserving in a brine.
After taste-testing two batches of capers preserved by my mother—one salt-cured, the other in a brine of salt, water and vinegar—I’ve decided that my favorite flavor comes from the salt-cured caper, hands down. The capers she preserved in water, salt and vinegar, while delicious, also tasted distinctly like…vinegar. The salt-cured capers allowed for the full flavor of the caper bud to flourish.
I thought perhaps I was alone in my caper preferences until yesterday when I discovered a link on Facebook to this to-the-point piece on capers by the esteemed Ed Behr, the editor of the beautiful and also esteemed food journal, The Art of Eating. (On an entirely different note, I’m honored to say that I have a story in the current edition of the magazine…my first!) On capers, Ed, as usual, is forthright with his opinion. (The article’s title is, “Capers in Dry Salt Are Better.”) Also as usual, his writing is chock full of interesting information and insight culled from years of travel, tasting, researching and writing about food. You can trust Ed to know his stuff.
But whether or not capers preserved in salt are truly better is, in my opinion, up to the taster. Since diversity is indeed the spice of life, I’ll post a last method for preserving capers, one that includes vinegar, lots. Have at it.
Pack your fresh, washed capers into sterile jars. Bring a small pan of white wine vinegar to boil (measure enough vinegar to fill your jar) with a pinch of salt and a bay leaf. Pour the boiling vinegar over the capers, filling to the rim. Close the lid tight. For a good seal, turn the jar upside down for twenty minutes. Store in a cool, dark place for about two months before opening.
Καλή όρεξη! And, as ever, thank you for reading The Shepherd and the Olive Tree.